Meeting Sonnie , a Buddhist Monk

Sabaidee, hello, how are you, where you come from ? I was suprised that a young monk was talking to me as they all seem to avoid tourists. So I sat down to have a chat with him. He introduced himself as “Sonnie” , a given nickname. Sonnie is 17 years old and comes from a rural village 120 north of Luang Prabang and has been living in this temple for 2 years.
Luang Prabang has been the cultural centre of Laos for centuries. The city with over 32 buddhist temples is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Visiting several of the temples I finally passed by Wat That Luang Rasamahavihane, the “Monastery of the Royal Stupa”, which is located outside the city center and where Sonnie lives. The temple was constructed on a small hill south of the city in 1818 during the reign of King Manthaturat (r. 1817-1836). That Luang has long been one of the important ritual sites for Buddhist, folk and royal ceremonials. There are two large stupas on the grounds. The golden funerary stupa in front of the sim contains the ashes of the popular and last crowned Laotian king, Sisivang Vong (r. 1904 -1959). It is the site of annual memorial commemorations. The Grand Stupa, which towers over the rear of the sim, dates from 1818 and is said to contain relics of the Buddha. The Wat also contains a number of smaller stupas that contain ashes of kings, other members of the royal family and a variety of other dignitaries.

Sonnie pointed to his dormitory. He lives here with 35 other young monks. Several of them joined already during elementary school, Sonnie arrived after 6 years of school in his home town 2 years ago and stays in the temple until graduation from high school next year. The school in downtown is a buddhist school he says, but english, biology, history etc. are also part of the curriculum. Sonnie explains his daily routine. Getting up at 4.00 a.m. the first activity is “praying buddha” for about 20 minutes. Afterwards all meditate for another 15 minutes. Then everybody heads to the Tak Bat, which starts at 5.30 a.m. As this is the most visible buddhist practice to foreigners I will add a separate post later.
After collecting the food they have breakfast together. He shows me the empty hall. This is all I will see from his temple, but I can add pictures from other locations to most of his routines.

He tells me that studies continues when they are home in the evenings. Elder monks are helping with homework, and of course they have additional buddhist teachings.
All together it looks like a tough schedule. Seeing the monks sitting around in the temples in the city gives a different impression, but there are on school holiday right now. I see them following all types of activities. He tells me, that the have constructed a new dorm all by themselves, supported only by donations from outside.


Sonnie points at two monks next to the dining room. “They are shaving, we all must have a bold head by tomorrow” he explains. Tomorrow is full moon celebration. And indeed I have seen no monk with hair today.And temples are decorated and had prayers at 7.00 p.m. to celebrate the full moon.



Sonnie guides me inside the temple as it started raining heavily. At 4.00 p.m. three of his fellow monks are starting to hit the drum at a bell tower.

We look out in the rain, not much to see, but we can here the drumming, which reminds me a bit of the Taiko drums of Japan. The drums have to sound twice a day, at specific times. he says. But Sonnie is not quite familiar with the religious background of some of his obligations and rituals. And now he has to leave me, because of other group activities. The day will end with no specific time he says. Because of their individual studies it can become late.
I ask him, what he plans to do after finishing school next year. He is not sure. Staying in the temple means eventually to become a teacher of buddha. But he is not much into teaching he says. His older brother , who also went to a temple, works now as a tour guide.

Good luck Sonnie !